You are not required to answer as it's simply too obvious. Nothing. So take a long walk is what we did after our usual caffee con cornetto at Bar Gianicolo this morning.
The sky was a brittle and bright blue as we ambled down the slight hill to the park we'd seen across a super busy stretch of road in Monte Verde, right next to the ristorante Scarpone we'd eaten at the previous week. Now crossing a busy Roman street with two curious dogs seemed daunting as the cars were just whipping by and crosswalks merely being suggestions rather than official orders.
That is until we discovered the magic trick: Walk the streets as though you're driving a car. With Brava and confidence AND politeness all wrapped carried in one sacchetto.
Driving in an Italian city can be scary and perplexing. Lane lines sometimes don't really exist and everyone, especially in Rome, seems to be vying for that coveted first place trophy at the finish line. Cars merging look more like a mob movement, like honey bees being hived for the first time, moving as one group into the narrow hive entrance looking for the new Queen. But what I've found, is that if you act like a shrinking violet and wait for someone to show mercy and just let you in, well, you may be waiting for a long, long time. But if you just head into the sea of merging traffic, in a somewhat respectful of space manner (meaning don't cut anyone off like a jerk, but just assert your space in the moving queue) the seas will part and you'll be let in just fine. Don't fight over space, acquistare it with measured confidence and finesse.
And the same thing is true when walking. Step boldly into a decent space between two oncoming cars and car #2 will respect your life and let you pass, maybe even slow down considerably.
And so we successfully moved ourselves and dogs across the busy road and entered near some the remains of the villa Doria Pamphili, which was once the huge 15th-century villa that dominated this space up until the Battle of Gianicolo Hill in 1849. At the time of the fighting between the defenders of the republic and the Francese, it was pummeled badly leaving it standing today as a huge arch at the entrance.
Huge and imposing, yet quiet and calm on this beautiful Tuesday morning. We passed by and alongside many joggers, and dog walkers, and mamas strolling with sleeping bambini, and old folks out for a morning's exercise. All was quiet and I don't think I've ever felt more calm and centered walking up the slight incline in the warm sunlight.
And dogs, lots of dogs. Milt and Bisou, along with having a zillion new trees and poles and benches to mark and sniff (Paradiso for a dog) found plenty of new dogs to meet and play with. In particular, Milt made super fast friends with a dachshund/beagle mix that so wanted to play "chase me", but Milt wasn't allowed off-leash as he's still pretty much too macho with any dog that is larger than him and we didn't want to start any trouble. Much hopping about and sniffing ensued. No language barrier seemed to exist between the dogs
To bad about the off-leash as this meadow was a prime running/frolicking and ball throwing field of dreams.
From the top.
From the Bottom
A little further along we found a community theater space where a troupe of actors were rehearsing a play. The theatre is a shared space for the arts; dance, music literature and live theater in another of the remaining buildings from the old Villa. A lovely addition to the neighborhood. We'll have to pick a show to come see, though one event, if my non-forte Italiano is correto, was a day of clown school. That might be fun.
Soldering on we found what I feel is the calmest meadow I've ever seen. Like something imagined in a dream. I can just see myself strolling on a day not unlike today in 1550 or so discussing the art and literature of the day
We left by a side entrance back to Via Casini and home, as dammit, it was still a Tuesday and I was forced to give in to the pressure and do some actual work to pay for living in this dream state. We really only got to see maybe 1/20th* of the park which has lakes and even a Calcio stadium. But that's a good thing, now that I think about it. Now I've got a reason to come back on the next sunny day for more exploration.
*I kid you not, tt's a huge park.
The Monte Verde neighborhood just keeps getting better every day.
A presto
No comments:
Post a Comment