There was a time when my day started a double mocha from a Vietnamese donut shop for the drive to work, a mid-morning cappuccino at my desk and then a mid-afternoon pick-me-up single shot of espresso. Somehow I could still sleep at night. I think. I dialed that back a wee bit as I've gotten older and it DID begin to affect my sleep, but I still love that life-enhancing double espresso shot(s) first thing in the morning
At home, I've since leveled up to a real espresso machine, a Breville, and buy my beans carefully after much searching for a true Italian espresso roast. My machine has its own grinder so each cup is fresh and brewed within seconds of grinding and I've adjusted the grind and amount to my taste (basically rocket fuel) to make, for me, a perfect cup of caffe.
One of the many things I adore about Italy outside the quality of the coffee, is the way in which it is prepared and the whole daily ritual built around it. Especially here in Rome; it really hits my sweet spot. I mean, I've known good coffee. I really like French coffee and cafe con leche in Spain is just super amazing. About the strongest, I've ever had. And as mentioned, my own home espresso is rocket fuel.
But one's morning coffee in Rome is much more than just a tool to get one awake or becoming productive. It is a shared cultural community, a time to connect with your neighborhood, to share a conversation and a start to the day or a boost to elevate your senses in the afternoon, or after a fine meal. It's a solid part of the entire La Dolce Vita experience.
There are a gazillion articles already on the myriad of "rules" involving Roman coffee Bar best practices so I'll skip making yet another list, except to say we've naturally fallen in line with the program with only one or two minor faux pas. For two days when we first got here, I asked for expresso - before I realized that tagged me as an Americano. It's un caffè per favore. Coffee IS espresso. Expresso is the process of creating the beverage. We both knew in advance the rule about no cappuccino after lunch or meals. That was easy to follow. I mean who would need/want more milk after the wonderful meal? Didn't you get enough food? So that was easy, but we did learn to not order cappuccinos or cappuccino but to just say, Due pucci, per favore. it felt odd the first time I ordered pucci, as it sounded like a cute name for my cat, but I got over it quickly.
The other is the cafe etiquette. Just sit down, relax, find a table. Your server will find you and take care of everything. No rush. No need to come inside and ask for a table. Just choose the one you like and relax. If you're in a rush to get to that damn job, or appointment, or to go take a walk to the park or shopping, walk into the bar, belly up to the counter* and be in and out the door in 3 minutes. it's cheaper too, by about half in most bars.
*in larger Bars you should pay at the cashier first and then hand your receipt to the Barista - they have no time to waste with the puerile act of dealing with money. They are artists.
Bar Gianicolo. My favorite table is at far right, as it has a wall-mounted clip for attaching your dog leashes. "Dog parking."
Some views from my morning table
d.
After 5 weeks, the great staff at Bar Giancolo know the dog's names, our regular order (day and night) and we've graduated from Ciao or Prego to "A presto!" or "Arrivederci!" upon paying and leaving. And we've met and had conversations with fellow travelers; A Swedish mural artist who honest to forking gawd met the Pope when installing some work in the Vaticana museo, many, many other dog owners and dog lovers, and just today some Russian (who thought I was Italian since their Italiano was far worse than mine, lol) tourists who of course fell under Milton and Bisou's spell.
Coffee really is about pulling people together in a shared cultural experience in a place where a conversation is the norm and point of being in public. Such a nice change from the US where everyone seems to live in their own bubble and if someone DOES speak to you in public, one's defenses automatically rise to ward off the danger of s scam artists who wants to rob you. Such a sad way to live.
A presto, and come by some morning to Bar Gianicolo and share some coffee and conversation. Look for us at our regular table with the dogs, Milton and Bisou.
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